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Melt! Festival 2004

World Wide · 04.11.2004

By Ольга Черепан

16-18 July, 2004
Laurent Garnier, Ricardo Villalobos, DJ Koze, Peaches, Alexander Kowalski, Luciano, Captain Comatose, and others. The line-up speaks for itself. A similar line-up had been announced at the other electronic-music festivals held in Germany that summer. But what sets Melt! apart from all the rest is its unique location. The grounds of an abandoned brown-coal deposit faintly resemble the boundless steppes of Ukraine. Giant excavator machines, set on the peninsula of a small lake, form a kind of futuristic amphitheatre bearing the proud name City of Steel (Gorod Stali - ed.), or Ferropolis.
On the grounds of Ferropolis (about 90 kilometres from Berlin), originally conceived as an industrial museum, the Melt! festival has been held since 1995. Before that, brown coal was mined here. Thanks to one student's idea, the monster excavators came to serve as an unusual backdrop for events of this kind.
This lunar landscape in the provincial spot of Grafenhainichen, from 16 to 19 July, welcomed thousands of electronic-music lovers for the seventh time.
After the torrential rains of 2002 and the cancelled festival of 2003, this year the organisers set to work with fresh energy and inspiration. Melt! had never seen such a large-scale campaign to promote new talent and such a shrewd selection of already established artists in its entire seven-year history. In all, 107 musicians delighted the many-thousand-strong crowd of fans with their live performances and DJ sets - from the warm-up by the post-rockers of Tortoise to the soothing Andre Galluzzi. Electro from ADA and Ellen Allien, cheerful soul from International Pony, Senor Coconut with his multi-instrumental orchestra, DJ Koze with a stunning set of "noble" techno, sets by bands - the new sixties-style rockers Mando Diao, the electro-rock Northern Lite, Phoenix, Beige GT and T.Raumschmiere, Peaches' brutal performance, the provocative Captain Comatose, Mike Skinner aka The Streets with his street slang and melancholic pop-house from 2Raumwohnung. Shitkatapult label founder Marco Haas traced out musical pirouettes with his crew of the same name. DJs of world renown: Richie Hawtin, Ricardo Villalobos, as well as the guru of French electronic music Laurent Garnier - supplied the crowd with quality techno. The Kanzleramt and F-Communication labels, each celebrating its 10th anniversary, prepared a special programme for the festival. The Youngsters, who turned out to be very much "The Adults" in real life, and Alexander Kowalski, who on the contrary surprised everyone with his rather young age, delighted the audience with their live sets. Across the four dancefloors, one of which ran around the clock, there was enough room for everyone.
The musical spectacle was accompanied by the brilliant work of the lighting directors who, creating one-of-a-kind visual effects, turned the City of Steel - fearsome in daylight - into the fairy-tale lunar city of Ferropolis.
Now a little practical information that will be useful to those planning to go to the Melt! festival next year.

Route:
Getting to the festival site is not difficult at all. On the official Melt! website www.meltfestival.de you can find route maps to the festival site from all the major cities of Germany. We started out from Berlin. From there it is an hour and a half by regional train to Dussau station. In Europe train journeys are quite expensive, but on weekends Deutsche Bahn gives you a chance to save. The weekend ticket (Wochenende Fahrkarte) costs 20 euros and grants the right to unlimited travel around Germany for a group of up to 5 people. But, as everyone knows, necessity is the mother of invention, and in this respect the Germans are no worse than the Russians. They find people at the station and buy one weekend ticket for everyone - the main thing is that everyone's route matches, otherwise the inspector will fine each of them 40 euros. Scheduled buses run from Dussau station to Ferropolis, but we missed them, though it was not at all late - around 6 in the evening - and we hired one of several minibuses. It held 8 people and cost 30 euros - for that modest sum the driver not only got us there but also gave us a little excursion into the history of the Ferropolis site. That is how we reached Ferropolis and got out at the ticket offices. On the adjacent grounds a huge parking lot had been set up, so if you have the chance to come by car - welcome. Then we bought tickets, and a free bus took us from the ticket offices straight to the festival entrance.
Entrance:
The entry price varied depending on the length of your stay. A ticket for all 3 days of the festival cost 46 euros. At the entrance to the festival grounds we were met by very friendly but meticulous security. The search was conducted in the best traditions of detective cinema: pockets were turned inside out, all items being brought in were "scanned", right down to cigarette packs and contact-lens cases. All contraband found was mercilessly tossed into the bin, yet the security took no lawful action beyond that - people were simply deprived of the buzz they had found. Thus the main stimulant and mood-lifter was alcohol and whatever the security failed to find on you or you had prudently left in the lockers. By the way, on the subject of the high level of organisation - a first-aid post was on duty around the clock at the festival.
Luggage and rest:
The festival organisers took care of everyone - a giant campsite on the lakeshore for the party-goers who came for all 3 days; lockers for those who stayed only briefly or left their tent at home and had to make do with sleeping under the open sky. You had to pay extra for the campsite, but tents are not rented out - you have to bring your own. Those who did not sort out a tent and came with a sleeping bag settled right on the lakeshore. In front of the festival entrance there were round-the-clock Event Locker storage boxes, where you could get rid of unnecessary things for 3 euros a day.
Food:
On the festival grounds there was enough food on sale at slightly inflated but acceptable prices - Italian, Thai and Turkish fast food, pancakes, sausages and much more. At the bar, alcohol was sold at the average prices of Moscow clubs. Seasoned party-goers acted more wisely - they stocked up on both food and drink in advance. Bringing provisions onto the festival grounds was forbidden - once again the lockers came to the rescue.
Daytime:
This year the summer in Berlin turned out rainy and cool, but, as if on cue, full-blown summer set in during the festival days. Heated up by the night's dancing, people spent the whole day enjoying the cool water of the lake, alternating swims with sunbathing.
As early as the second day we set off to eat well in the neighbouring town of Grafenhainichen, which is 15 minutes' drive from Ferropolis - you can get there by bus or hitch a ride. Hitching a ride turned out to be easier. The little town proved to be a small, cosy village with single-storey houses, cobbled streets and friendly people. Here we ate very well and cheaply at a little Italian restaurant and stocked up on provisions at the local supermarket, which helped us save on the night-time bar. We got back just in time for the Senor Coconut Orchestra's set and carried on the celebration, at which everyone conversed in different dialects of the one language everybody understands - the language of music.

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